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Napa Valley | Wineries | Wine
News
Daryl
Sattui set out to build a modest, 8,500-square-foot winery.
Millions of dollars and 120,000 square feet later, he's king
of a wine country castle complete with drawbridge, dungeons
and nifty little slots for the old boiling oil trick. If neighboring
Sterling Vineyards decides to make a move, he says with a
chuckle, "We'll be ready." So far, the chief invaders
of Castello di Amorosa -- "Castle of Love" -- have
been tourists and wine-lovers, eager to get a look at the
13th-century-style Tuscan castle that sits on Diamond Mountain,
just south of Calistoga on Highway 29. No cheesy replica,
Castello di Amorosa looks and feels like the real deal. That's
because it is, says Sattui. The roughhewn walls and ceilings
contain bricks hundreds of years old, all imported from Europe
-- there are 850,000 in all. See rest
of story on CNN.com
Petit Verdot is a
Catch-22 grape
By John Intardonato
Petit Verdot
is a densely dark, full-bodied red grape used in France
as seasoning, and to add additional backbone and distinction
to Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon during cool, lean, and
rainy years. Unfortunately, it is a very late ripener and
a poor producer even in good years. In the wine world, it
is a sort of Catch-22 grape, because the years when it is
needed, it may not ripen at all.
While the French
are pulling this vine, Napa Valley’s Viader Vineyards
and Winery has been growing the grape for over 20 years,
and has been making it as a varietal for eight.
Owner and winemaker
Delia Viader believes the grape may be just perfect for
the Napa Valley and its long, warm Indian summers.
She thinks it
is the new flavor in the Napa Valley.
"The French
don’t have the large amount of sun that we have; therefore,
they cannot get the grape to ripen very well, but here in
Napa, we have plenty of sun, and our vineyard on Howell
Mountain has a due west exposure. It is well suited for
Petit Verdot. "
Viader thinks
it can become the next "it" wine. "We call
it our racy wine," she said. "It’s very
different. It has high natural acidity, and dense tannins."
She said that by working at higher PH, she can tame the
tannins, and make the wine softer. "By working above
4 PH, sometimes even 4.4, we manage to tame the beast, and
bring it down to balance. It’s such a wonder to see
a wine with such muscle become a docile, beautiful, but
dense red wine."
To bring out
the richness of the fruit, Viader says they will keep the
wine on its skins for as long as 67 days. "The French
would freak out with our PHs., but we get that extra flavor,
tannin, body, and color.
It’s a
delicious wine, and a new taste. It’s not a textbook
wine, but I think there’s a lot of interest in it."
Viader, who has
doctorates from both UCBerkeley, and MIT, says that Petit
Verdot is not your easiest grape to grow or manage. Her
vines are planted at an elevation of 1200 feet, on a 32
percent slope. The spacing is 4 feet by 5 feet. She refers
to her 20-year-old vines as her "bonsai" vines,
because they yield only 1.25 tons per acre.
"We’re
happy when we even get a crop, since with our soil, they
really struggle, but that make great wine, " she said.
The wine spends
24 months in new French oak, and is balanced with about
25 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3 percent Cabernet Franc.
Viader said Petit
Verdot holds up very well, and is an easy wine to age.
Viader’s
son, Alan, who grew up at the winery, and is now the vineyard
manager, said they do not start tasting the fruit until
the end of September. "It’s never really ripe
until the end of October, and even into November,"
he said. "The ultimate test is really in the flavors
and the tannins."
His mother agreed.
"It’s almost impossible to approach the grape
unless you can get at least 14 percent alcohol, or around
25 or 26 brix."
She adds: "Then
it comes out with very distinct flavors. It’s very
dense, very plumy. One woman said, ‘Oh this is just
sinful. This is like liquid chocolate.’ It’s
so distinct, something you remember and want to come back
to."
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